FELON'

Creator(s):

Currently in storage

About this object

The overall shape and cut of the felon' are typical of other nineteenth and twentieth-century examples. The pattern of the fabric, however, indicates the influence of Art nouveau graphics and Japanese art on Russian design. The design is rendered almost entirely in a single color of gold-wrapped silk thread. The background is made up of gold thread interwoven with bright yellow silk threads, resulting in an extremely bright tone. Different areas of the pattern are distinguished by fine outlining in brown silk or in the creation of contrasting textures created with assorted kinds of gold thread (jaceron, bullion, etc.). The outlining, rather than shading, of figures and the uniformity of the bright gold fabric lends a graphic flatness to the pattern. The pattern is a very large design centering on a non-illusionistic depiction of an aster or crooked leaved chrysanthemum surrounded by the arching swirl of a flowering vine covered with bunches of geraniums or flax ornamented with subtle green centers (to the left) and a large simplified leaf in gold outlined in brown silk (to the right). The two apparels, also rendered in shades of gold, are ornamented with a large zigzag outlined in brown silk through which a stylized, highly balanced flowering vine is interwoven. A smaller band in which just the points of the zigzag pattern are visible is sewn around the yoke and hem. The large cross (8.5 x 8.5 inches) and star (9 x 9 inches) sewn to the back of the garment are rendered in stumpwork ornamented with a variety of gold threads (rough purl, smooth purl, pearl purl, torsade, etc.) and spangles. The four arms of the cross terminate in tripartite arms that are repeated within the interior of the star. The entire garment is lined in yellow linen.

Object name:

FELON'

Made from:

Silk -- gold-wrapped silk thread -- linen -- gilded silver -- gilt spangles -- board -- cotton

Made in:

Moscow, Russia

Date made:

ca. 1910

Size:

H. 59 1/2 in., W. 62 1/4 in.

Detailed information for this item

Catalog number:

44.42

Class:

VESTMENT

Signature marks:

Hallmark [Delta] [kokoshnik right] 84 On ring of gilt filigree button on far proper right. This is the silver standard and mark for the Moscow Assayer's Office in use from 1908 to 1917. Hallmark [Delta] [kokoshnik right] 84 On ring of gilt filigree button on proper right, middle. This is the silver standard and mark for the Moscow Assayer's Office in use from 1908 to 1917. Hallmark [Delta] [kokoshnik right] 84 On ring of gilt filigree button in the center. This is the silver standard and mark for the Moscow Assayer's Office in use from 1908 to 1917. Hallmark [Delta] [kokoshnik right] 84 On ring of gilt filigree button on proper left, middle. This is the silver standard and mark for the Moscow Assayer's Office in use from 1908 to 1917. Hallmark [Delta] [kokoshnik right] 84 On ring of gilt filigree button on far proper left. This is the silver standard and mark for the Moscow Assayer's Office in use from 1908 to 1917. maker's mark [Cyrillic] IO On ring of gilt filigree button on far proper right. In a rectangular frame, without dots or other marks. Mark of Ivan Ivanovich Ovchinnikov. maker's mark [Cyrillic] IO On ring of gilt filigree button on proper right, middle. In a rectangular frame, without dots or other marks. Mark of Ivan Ivanovich Ovchinnikov. maker's mark [Cyrillic] IO On ring of gilt filigree button in the center. In a rectangular frame, without dots or other marks. Mark of Ivan Ivanovich Ovchinnikov. maker's mark [Cyrillic] IO On ring of gilt filigree button on proper left, middle. In a rectangular frame, without dots or other marks. Mark of Ivan Ivanovich Ovchinnikov. maker's mark [Cyrillic] IO On ring of gilt filigree button on far proper left. In a rectangular frame, without dots or other marks. Mark of Ivan Ivanovich Ovchinnikov. inscription 45/[Cyr] SN. 9202 Handwritten in purple ink on lining, at lower hem center. Meaning is not clear; presumably this is an inventory mark. inscription 9202 Handwritten in purple ink, on lining inside collar, rear. Meaning is not clear; presumably this is an inventory mark.

Credit line:

Gift of Dina Merrill Robertson, 1977